Roman poet Tibullus called Rome “The Eternal City” in the 1st century BC, a moniker which has lasted to this day. It’s a city steeped in history and wonder—an apt backdrop for one of Europe’s most intense and anticipated rivalries.
Two teams who, other than sharing the stadium they play their home games in, don’t have much in common. This game, the Derby della Capitale, is a gladiatorial battle for bragging rights in the Italian capital.
When Lazio won the 2000 league title, Roma had to follow it up the next season by clinching Serie A themselves. The thought of your fiercest rivals lifting the Scudetto is enough to motivate a side for the following campaign.
Head coach José Mourinho delivered a European trophy in his first season as Roma’s boss in the form of the UEFA Europa Conference League. Adding to their trophy cabinet would’ve no doubt irked their cross-city rivals. Mourinho rubbed salt into the wound when he celebrated this accomplishment by getting a tattoo of the tournament trophy.
Overall though, at least compared to their native counterparts in Milan and Turin, these two sides have underachieved in terms of their respective trophy hauls.
In the north-western corner of Rome, the Stadio Olimpico becomes a cauldron of hatred and passion for 90 minutes twice a season. Over 70,000 people can fit into the iconic arena and I couldn’t wait to see what would unfold that Sunday evening. I was lucky enough to witness this derby for myself to see first-hand the famed atmosphere this rivalry can generate.
When in Rome…
Lazio were positioned just ahead of their local rivals in the table before kickoff, making this fixture even more eagerly anticipated. These are two clubs with European aspirations and, considering the size of their fanbases and the city they’re located in, haven’t lived up to those expectations.
When it comes to pre-game refreshments, you’re spoiled for choice here. An extensive choice of fine Italian coffee, delicious local cuisine, and tantalising alcoholic beverages is everything Rome is famous for and all you need to provide the energy boost required for such an animated encounter.
On this occasion, Roma was the designated “home” side, despite both of them playing in their own stadium. It’s intriguing to me that you’ll find lots of Roma fans sitting in the seats that die-hard Lazio fans would normally sit in for home games. This isn’t something that many are accustomed to in other countries but seems to be the case in Italy.
Countless vendors sell matchday memorabilia on the walk to the Stadio Olimpico. In this instance, there was mostly Roma merchandise for sale, but I’m guessing the roles would be reversed were Lazio the host.
Approaching the famous arena, you notice the bowl design from far away. It’s a similar design to many modern European stadiums; perhaps unsurprisingly given the work that was done to the stadium in 1990, making it a suitable and modern venue for that year’s World Cup final.
I was tempted by some of the options available to me at the food counters spread across both the outside of the stadium and in the concourse. However, to my disappointment, the queues were horrendously long. It was unfortunate, but I felt my time was better spent soaking up the pre-game atmosphere.
As you make your way up the steps to your seat, you become intoxicated by the sea of red and yellow flags being waved at every turn. Antonello Venditti’s “Roma, Roma” anthem is blasted out over the loudspeakers and chanted by thousands in attendance, demonstrating their love for ‘I Giallorossi’.
The away contingent displayed an impressive tifo bearing an eagle, Lazio’s symbolic animal, across individual sheets held up in the air. I knew I was in for an atmospheric and emotional experience.
Both sides were desperate to not just climb the league table, but get one over their old foe.
A stunning start
The first half was played at a blistering pace, but only by one side. Lazio had hardly touched the ball before Tammy Abraham put Roma ahead within a minute, becoming the first Englishman to score in a Rome derby since Paul Gascoigne in the process. I’d barely had a chance to settle in as the home fans were sent into pandemonium.
The goalkeeper and Lazio’s defenders should’ve handled the corner kick better, regardless of its wicked delivery. Whether he knew much about it or not, Abraham instinctively poked the ball in to give his team the early edge.
Roma didn’t slow down either. They pushed forward and closed down at every opportunity, not giving their opponents a moment’s respite.
It was only 20 minutes later when their lead was doubled and it was that man again: Tammy Abraham. This was his first season in Italian soccer and he’d already cemented his place as a Roma hero. Intricate build-up play exposed Lazio’s left flank and Abraham was left with the task of tapping in a stinging cross into the empty net.
The start you either dream of or have nightmares about as a head coach, depending on which camp you’re in.
Roma continued to pile on the pressure. Lazio had one or two half chances but they were limited by stalwart defensive rigidity from an organised home team.
So it’s 2-0, a precarious scoreline in soccer. You’d think that maybe Lazio can salvage something from this game if they could regroup at the break and tweak their tactics; Lorenzo Pellegrini had other ideas.
Five minutes before the interval, from a position of at least 30 yards out, the midfielder picked out the top corner with his free kick to send the home fans into raptures and effectively put the game to bed.
You can’t place a free kick more perfectly than that. It will surely go down as one of the all-time great Rome derby goals.
Amid the celebrations, the cameras pan to Roma legend Francesco Totti, who cracks a wry smile, almost a smirk, knowing this was a good day for ‘La Lupa’.
It could’ve been more had Henrikh Mkhitaryan’s deflected effort not struck the crossbar minutes after Roma’s third; they simply overwhelmed Lazio in every department.
The referee blew his whistle for half-time, temporarily putting ‘I Biancocelesti’ out of their misery. Whatever Lazio’s game plan was before the game, it was torn up into shreds now. The most monumental of comebacks was required to turn this one around.
Already done and dusted?
Sadly for the visitors, this comeback didn’t come to fruition, though. Roma managed the second half extremely well and kept their rivals mostly at bay.
In fact, just after the hour mark, Abraham should’ve sealed his hat trick, and his despondence after his missed opportunity exemplified that. An inch-perfect long ball was beautifully cushioned by the Englishman who opened up his foot too much and pushed the ball wide of the goal. A glaring miss and opportunity squandered to cap off a golden performance.
Some half-chances came and went for the away team who had no answer for Roma’s dominance. A rifled header on a rare Lazio attack was conveniently placed straight down the middle of ‘keeper Rui Patricio’s goal, making it easy for him to handle.
To the credit of Lazio’s fans, they continued waving their flags and passionately singing right until the bitter end.
Yet this was Roma’s day. The full-time sparked jubilant celebrations in the stands, with 90% of those in the stadium joining in the singing of the club anthem in unison once again. Roma’s substitute players and coaching staff stormed the pitch to join the eleven on the field in their revelry.
It was a thoroughly deserved victory and the scoreline certainly didn’t flatter the hosts.
The joy within the stadium was unmatched by many games I’ve witnessed. If you hadn’t fallen in love with AS Roma after experiencing this game, you never will.
Calm after the storm
You might’ve heard some horror stories when it comes to violence at derbies like this particularly as both sets of fans have passionate ultra groups. I’m not suggesting there’s never any trouble (we know this simply isn’t the case), but my experience was an enjoyable one and the trip back to central Rome was easy and hassle-free.
Home fans were chanting ecstatically on the streets and in the public transport carriages. I could already envisage newspaper journalists frantically typing their post-match reports with headlines to the tune of “Abraham: the new Roman Emperor”.
Being situated in central Rome was ideal after the game, it was neutral territory. Tourists and locals alike were roaming the streets as if such an intense battle hadn’t taken place that day.
This brought an end to my Roman adventure. “The Eternal City” was everything I’d dreamed it would be, on and off the field. It’s a game, particularly the first half, that will live long in my mind and, for that of every Roma globally, it will fittingly remain an eternal memory.
Great article!